Malinalco is beautifully located in a spectacular landscape. Green forests and hills surround this small colonial town in the highlands southeast of Mexico City. This town, despite its spectacular and highly interesting archaeological zone, receives astonishing few foreign visitors. Malinalco is mostly mentioned in travel guide books only with a couple of lines and very few visitors find their way to this magnificent place. A number of well to do inhabitants of Mexico City (including some high-ranking politicians and celebrities) have weekend houses here, which is the reason why the town despite its isolated location and small size has a number of excellent restaurants offering a wide variety. We recommend visitors to try out some of the local [fish] dishes which are very tasteful and mostly delicately prepared.

In pre-Hispanic times, Malinalco was an important center for training and education of young recruits to the imperial Aztec forces. Initiation rites for new recruits were also held here. The Aztec Temple of the Eagle and Jaguar Warrior was the most important place for worship in pre-Hispanic Malinalco, and is also today an impressive sight. It is built into the top of a mountain and thrones ca one kilometre above the town in the valley underneath. It is actually one of only 3 places in the world that has temples carved into the mountain itself. The view from the mountain top where the archaeological zone is located is simply spectacular. When going to Malinalco, a camera is definitely a must. Every Saturday, a colourful tianguis, (market) is held in Malinalco. We therefore highly recommend to visit Malinalco on a Saturday even if it means that also the ruin site will have more visitors. 

In the 16^th century, the Spaniards ordered many churches and convents to be erected in the town, which has many beautifully preserved examples of early colonial architecture, often constructed with stones from the Pre-Hispanic site.

The churches are often decorated with frescos and murals that were painted by converted Indians in the early colonial period under supervision by Spanish friars. In these artworks, indigenous and Catholic artistic conventions, symbolism and imagery often mixed and merged. The ecclesiastical art of colonial Malinalco has been discussed by the American art historian Jeanette Peterson whose writings focuses on the complex interchange between the Pre-Columbian and European Renaissance worlds. Enkidu recommends in particular her prize winning book: The Paradise Garden Murals of Malinalco: Utopia and Empire in Sixteenth-century Mexico, from 1993 as an introduction.

 Lars Ivar Borge in front of the main temple in Malinalco (fotos © Enkidu 2003)

Chalma

The visit to Chalma, intends to offer an introduction to the contemporary indigenous cultures in the region. Chalma is a small village in the highland to the south of Mexico City that in pre-Hispanic times hosted an important shrine to a local high deity, who after the forced conversion, became associated with an image of the crucified Christ. The pilgrimages and celebrations could therefore continue until today. Particularly spectacular is the annual pilgrimage of the Xochimilca people to Chalma in August.

Chalma with its rich history and colourful street life is always an exiting place to explore. Few foreigners find their way to this isolated little town, and a visit here might give you the feeling of being a pioneer traveller.